Bio-Based Silicone Alternatives for Hair Conditioning

Which bio-based silicone alternatives match hair conditioning while cutting micro-plastic release?

Chitin-derived compounds are the only bio-based alternatives that both condition hair and reduce microplastic waste.

Abstract

Several studies report that a range of bio‐based alternatives achieve hair‐conditioning benefits. Plant-based oils (e.g., Brazil nut and olive oils) improve break force, reduce combing force, and enhance shine. Marine-derived peptides yield smoother surface morphology with less fragmentation, while bio-based polymers (such as waterborne polyurethanes and cationic cellulose) improve moisture uptake and silicone deposition. Novel surfactants (for example, Behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine and keratin-based surfactants), chitosan-based formulations, protein-based conditioners (such as cetearamidoethyl diethonium hydrolyzed protein), and plant extracts also demonstrate improvements in friction, contact angle, and hair strength.

Regarding environmental impact, several alternatives are reported to be biodegradable. Among the candidates, chitin-derived compounds alone show evidence of reducing plastic waste, suggesting a potential to cut microplastic release. Formulation and processing details—such as emulsification behavior, pH sensitivity, and particle size control—further inform performance, yet only chitin-derived compounds directly address the microplastic concern alongside robust hair conditioning.

Methods

We analyzed 40 sources from an initial pool of 500, using 8 screening criteria. Each paper was reviewed for 5 key aspects that mattered most to the research question. More on methods.

Papers identified with Elicit search

• n = 500

Papers screened using: Bio-based Alternative Focus, Hair Conditioning Properties, Study Type, Scientific Rigor, Performance Data, Environmental Impact, Hair Care Relevance, Comparative Analysis

• n = 500

Papers screened out

• n = 460

Papers included for extraction

• n = 40

Screening

We screened in sources based on their abstracts that met these criteria:

• Bio-based Alternative Focus: Does the study examine bio-based (not synthetic) alternatives to silicone in hair care products?
• Hair Conditioning Properties: Does the study include quantitative measurements of hair conditioning performance metrics?
• Study Type: Is the study either (a) an original research article with laboratory data, (b) a comparative study, or (c) a systematic review/meta-analysis?
• Scientific Rigor: Is the study published in a peer-reviewed journal or presented in a scientific conference proceedings (not marketing materials or product claims)?
• Performance Data: Does the study include experimental data on material properties relevant to hair care applications?
• Environmental Impact: Does the study include measurements or analysis of environmental impact (such as biodegradability or microplastic release)?
• Hair Care Relevance: Are the bio-based materials specifically studied for their application in hair care products?
• Comparative Analysis: Does the study include direct comparison with conventional silicone-based ingredients or established performance benchmarks?

We considered all screening questions together and made a holistic judgement about whether to screen in each paper.

Data extraction

We asked a large language model to extract each data column below from each paper. We gave the model the extraction instructions shown below for each column.

Study Design Type:

Identify the type of study design used:

• Experimental laboratory study
• Comparative analysis
• Theoretical/review study
• Formulation development study

Specific Research Focus:

Extract the primary research objective or focus of the study. Look in the introduction or objectives section. Specifically note:

• Whether the study focuses on bio-based alternatives
• Whether micro-plastic reduction is addressed
• Specific hair conditioning mechanisms examined

Bio-based Conditioning Agent Characteristics:

Extract details about the bio-based conditioning agent:

• Chemical/molecular name
• Origin (plant-based, marine-based, etc.)
• Specific chemical properties
• Molecular structure (if provided)

Performance Metrics:

Identify specific performance measurements for the conditioning agent:

• Conditioning effectiveness metrics
• Micro-plastic release measurements
• Comparative performance against traditional silicone agents

Biodegradability and Ecological Impact:

Extract information about:

• Biodegradation rate
• Aquatic toxicity measurements
• Environmental sustainability metrics

Results

Characteristics of Included Studies

Effects of Bio-based Alternatives

Conditioning Performance

Environmental Impact

Processing and Application Considerations

Manufacturing Requirements

• Formulation techniques:
  • Zhou et al. (2024) demonstrated that the presence of cellulose nanocrystals improved the emulsifying properties of cationic cellulose
• Processing conditions:
  • Ajayi et al. (2021) investigated the impact of process mixing speed on the rheological, tribological, and wet lubrication performance of a novel amino lipid hair conditioner
• Particle size control:
  • Haake et al. (2010) found that particle size was a crucial factor in determining the amount of wax deposited on shampooed hair
• Compatibility with existing formulations:
  • Li et al. (2022) emphasized the importance of ensuring compatibility between novel bio-based ingredients and commercial surfactants commonly used in hair care products

Stability and Formulation

• pH sensitivity:
  • Some bio-based alternatives, like Behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine (BAPDMA), show pH-dependent behavior, converting into a cationic surfactant at acidic pH
• Emulsion stability:
  • Zhou et al. (2024) focused on developing stable silicone oil emulsions using cellulose-based complexes
• Hydration and swelling:
  • Ormeño-Martínez et al. (2024) noted that the hydration of deposited chitosan-based films increases with polymer concentration and ionic strength
• Thermal stability:
  • Rodrigues et al. (2020) included thermogravimetric analysis in their evaluations
• Synergistic effects:
  • Fernandes et al. (2023) discussed the use of hyaluronic acid in combination with biosurfactants or biobased surfactants

References

1. Valentin Goussard, J. Aubry, V. Nardello‐Rataj (2022). Bio-based alternatives to volatile silicones: Relationships between chemical structure, physicochemical properties and functional performances. Advances in Colloid and Interface Science.
2. Catarina Fernandes, B. Medronho, L. Alves, M. Rasteiro (2023). On Hair Care Physicochemistry: From Structure and Degradation to Novel Biobased Conditioning Agents. Polymers.
3. Ziyong Zhou, Junxin Xu, Shiyun Zhu, Bin Wang, Jun Li, and 2 more (2024). A gentle conditioning agent consisted of oppositely-charged-induced cellulose nanocrystal and cationic cellulose: Stability, conditioning and delivery. Journal of Cleaner Production.
4. Zhaoting Liu, Katja Graf, Jochen Hub, M. Kellermeier (2022). Effects of Cosmetic Emulsions on the Surface Properties of Mongolian Hair. ACS Omega.
5. P. Morganti, G. Morganti, M. Coltelli (2021). Smart and Sustainable Hair Products Based on Chitin-Derived Compounds. Cosmetics.
6. Laura Fernández-Peña, E. Guzmán, F. Léonforté, Ana Serrano-Pueyo, Krzysztof Regulski, and 4 more (2020). Effect of molecular structure of eco-friendly glycolipid biosurfactants on the adsorption of hair-care conditioning polymers. Colloids and Surfaces B: Biointerfaces.
7. Benjamin J. Coscia, J. Shelley, A. Browning, J. Sanders, R. Chaudret, and 4 more (2023). Shearing friction behaviour of synthetic polymers compared to a functionalized polysaccharide on biomimetic surfaces: models for the prediction of performance of eco-designed formulations. Physical Chemistry, Chemical Physics - PCCP.