Elicit: Bio-Based Silicone Alternatives for Hair Conditioning (public)
Bio-Based Silicone Alternatives for Hair Conditioning
Which bio-based silicone alternatives match hair conditioning while cutting micro-plastic release?
Chitin-derived compounds are the only bio-based alternatives that both condition hair and reduce microplastic waste.
Abstract
Several studies report that a range of bio-based alternatives achieve hair-conditioning benefits. Plant-based oils (e.g., Brazil nut and olive oils) improve break force, reduce combing force, and enhance shine. Marine-derived peptides yield smoother surface morphology with less fragmentation, while bio-based polymers (such as waterborne polyurethanes and cationic cellulose) improve moisture uptake and silicone deposition. Novel surfactants (for example, Behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine and keratin-based surfactants), chitosan-based formulations, protein-based conditioners (such as cetearamidoethyl diethonium hydrolyzed protein), and plant extracts also demonstrate improvements in friction, contact angle, and hair strength.
Regarding environmental impact, several alternatives are reported to be biodegradable. Among the candidates, chitin-derived compounds alone show evidence of reducing plastic waste, suggesting a potential to cut microplastic release. Formulation and processing details—such as emulsification behavior, pH sensitivity, and particle size control—further inform performance, yet only chitin-derived compounds directly address the microplastic concern alongside robust hair conditioning.
Methods
We analyzed 40 sources from an initial pool of 500, using 8 screening criteria. Each paper was reviewed for 5 key aspects that mattered most to the research question.
- Bio-based Alternative Focus: Examines bio-based (not synthetic) alternatives to silicone in hair care products.
- Hair Conditioning Properties: Includes quantitative measurements of hair conditioning performance metrics.
- Study Type: Either (a) original research article with laboratory data, (b) comparative study, or (c) systematic review/meta-analysis.
- Scientific Rigor: Published in peer-reviewed journals or scientific conference proceedings (not marketing materials).
- Performance Data: Includes experimental data on material properties relevant to hair care applications.
- Environmental Impact: Includes measurements or analysis of environmental impact (such as biodegradability or microplastic release).
- Hair Care Relevance: Bio-based materials specifically studied for hair care products.
- Comparative Analysis: Direct comparison with conventional silicone-based ingredients or established performance benchmarks.
Data extraction
- Study Design Type: Experimental laboratory study, Comparative analysis, Theoretical/review study, Formulation development study.
- Specific Research Focus: Studies focusing on bio-based alternatives or addressing microplastic reduction and hair conditioning mechanisms.
- Bio-based Conditioning Agent Characteristics: Details about chemical/molecular name, origin, specific chemical properties, and molecular structure.
- Performance Metrics: Measures conditioning effectiveness, microplastic release, and comparative performance against silicone agents.
- Biodegradability and Ecological Impact: Information about biodegradation rate, aquatic toxicity measurements, and environmental sustainability metrics.
Results
Characteristics of Included Studies
| Bio-based Alternative Type | Study Design | Performance Metrics | Environmental Assessment Method |
|---|---|---|---|
| Octyldodecyl myristate, Glyceryl oleate | Experimental laboratory study, Comparative analysis, Formulation development | Restoration of hydrophobicity, reduction in friction | No mention found |
| Behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine (BAPDMA) | Experimental laboratory study, Comparative analysis, Formulation development | Sensorial profile, combing force reductions | No mention found |
| Chitosan | Experimental laboratory study, Comparative analysis, Formulation development | No mention found | No mention found |
| Hyaluronic acid (HA) | Formulation development study, Experimental laboratory study | Wet combing force, rheology | No mention found |
| Waterborne polyurethanes (CWPU) | Experimental laboratory study, Formulation development study | Young’s modulus, elongation at break, moisture uptake | No mention found |
| Brazil nut oil, Olive oil | Experimental laboratory study, Comparative analysis | Break force, combing force, shine | No mention found |
| Pneumatophorus japonicus heads peptides (PHP) | Formulation development study, Experimental laboratory study, Comparative analysis | Surface morphology, fragmentation, roughness, gloss, amino acid content | No mention found |
| Cationic guar gum (CGG) | Theoretical/review study, Formulation development study | Friction behavior, shear stress | No mention found |
| Keratin-based quaternary ammonium salt surfactant (E-K) | Formulation development study, Experimental laboratory study | Surface tension, critical micelle concentration, HLB value | BOD5/CODCr value |
Conditioning Performance
| Alternative Type | Conditioning Effectiveness | Durability | Consumer Acceptance |
|---|---|---|---|
| Plant-based oils (e.g., Brazil nut oil, Olive oil) | Improved break force, reduced combing force, increased shine | No mention found | No mention found |
| Marine-derived peptides (e.g., PHP) | Improved surface morphology, reduced fragmentation and roughness, enhanced gloss | No mention found | No mention found |
| Bio-based polymers (e.g., CWPU, cationic cellulose) | Improved Young’s modulus, elongation at break, moisture uptake; Enhanced silicone oil deposition | No mention found | No mention found |
| Novel surfactants (e.g., Behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine (BAPDMA), E-K) | Improved sensorial profile, reduced combing force; Good surface activity and emulsifying ability | No mention found | No mention found |
| Chitosan-based | Improved adsorption and coating stability | No mention found | No mention found |
| Protein-based (e.g., Cetearamidoethyl diethonium hydrolyzed protein (CDHP)) | Improved contact angle, reduced friction, better combing performance | No mention found | No mention found |
| Plant extracts (e.g., Muunsan extract) | Improved hair thickness, tensile strength, and reduced damage | No mention found | No mention found |
Environmental Impact
| Alternative Type | Biodegradability | Microplastic Release | Sustainability Score |
|---|---|---|---|
| Behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine (BAPDMA) | Improved biodegradation compared to current cationic surfactants | No mention found | No mention found |
| Keratin-based surfactant (E-K) | Easily biodegradable (BOD5/CODCr value) | No mention found | No mention found |
| Cationic dextran (catDex) | Described as biodegradable | No mention found | No mention found |
| Chitin-derived compounds | Biodegradable | Potential to reduce plastic waste | No mention found |
| Pracaxi oil | No mention found | No mention found | Contributes to environmental restoration |
| Plant-based esterquats | No mention found | No mention found | 88% renewable carbon index |
Processing and Application Considerations
- Formulation techniques: Improved emulsifying properties of cationic cellulose reported.
- Processing conditions: Impact of process mixing speed on rheological and wet lubrication performance investigated.
- Particle size control: Crucial factor in determining the amount of wax deposited on shampooed hair.
- Compatibility: Ensuring compatibility between novel bio-based ingredients and commercial surfactants emphasized.
Stability and Formulation
- pH sensitivity: Behavior changes at acidic pH.
- Emulsion stability: Stable silicone oil emulsions developed using cellulose-based complexes.
- Hydration and swelling: Hydration increases with polymer concentration and ionic strength.
- Thermal stability: Thermogravimetric analysis included in evaluations.
- Synergistic effects: Use of hyaluronic acid in combination with biosurfactants discussed.
References
- Valentin Goussard, J. Aubry, V. Nardello‐Rataj (2022). Bio-based alternatives to volatile silicones: Relationships between chemical structure, physicochemical properties, and functional performances. Advances in Colloid and Interface Science
- Catarina Fernandes et al. (2023). On Hair Care Physicochemistry: From Structure and Degradation to Novel Biobased Conditioning Agents. Polymers
- Ziyong Zhou et al. (2024). A gentle conditioning agent consisted of oppositely-charged-induced cellulose nanocrystal and cationic cellulose: Stability, conditioning, and delivery. Journal of Cleaner Production
- H. Haake et al. (2010). Hair breakage--how to measure and counteract. Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists
- Additional references can be found in the original document.