Elicit: Bio-Based Silicone Alternatives for Hair Conditioning (public)
Which bio-based silicone alternatives match hair conditioning while cutting micro-plastic release?
Abstract
Several studies report that a range of bio‐based alternatives achieve hair‐conditioning benefits. Plant-based oils (e.g., Brazil nut and olive oils) improve break force, reduce combing force, and enhance shine. Marine-derived peptides yield smoother surface morphology with less fragmentation, while bio-based polymers (such as waterborne polyurethanes and cationic cellulose) improve moisture uptake and silicone deposition. Novel surfactants (for example, Behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine and keratin-based surfactants), chitosan-based formulations, protein-based conditioners (such as cetearamidoethyl diethonium hydrolyzed protein), and plant extracts also demonstrate improvements in friction, contact angle, and hair strength.
Regarding environmental impact, several alternatives are reported to be biodegradable. Among the candidates, chitin-derived compounds alone show evidence of reducing plastic waste, suggesting a potential to cut microplastic release. Formulation and processing details—such as emulsification behavior, pH sensitivity, and particle size control—further inform performance, yet only chitin-derived compounds directly address the microplastic concern alongside robust hair conditioning.
Methods
We analyzed 40 sources from an initial pool of 500, using 8 screening criteria. Each paper was reviewed for 5 key aspects that mattered most to the research question.
Paper search
Using your research question “Which bio-based silicone alternatives match hair conditioning while cutting micro-plastic release?”, we searched across over 126 million academic papers from the Semantic Scholar corpus. We retrieved the 500 papers most relevant to the query.
Screening
We screened in sources based on their abstracts that met these criteria:
- Bio-based Alternative Focus: Does the study examine bio-based (not synthetic) alternatives to silicone in hair care products?
- Hair Conditioning Properties: Does the study include quantitative measurements of hair conditioning performance metrics?
- Study Type: Is the study either (a) an original research article with laboratory data, (b) a comparative study, or (c) a systematic review/meta-analysis?
- Scientific Rigor: Is the study published in a peer-reviewed journal or presented in a scientific conference proceedings (not marketing materials or product claims)?
- Performance Data: Does the study include experimental data on material properties relevant to hair care applications?
- Environmental Impact: Does the study include measurements or analysis of environmental impact (such as biodegradability or microplastic release)?
- Hair Care Relevance: Are the bio-based materials specifically studied for their application in hair care products?
- Comparative Analysis: Does the study include direct comparison with conventional silicone-based ingredients or established performance benchmarks?
Data extraction
We asked a large language model to extract each data column below from each paper.
- Study Design Type: Identify the type of study design used:
- Experimental laboratory study
- Comparative analysis
- Theoretical/review study
- Formulation development study
- Specific Research Focus: Extract the primary research objective or focus of the study.
- Bio-based Conditioning Agent Characteristics: Extract details about the bio-based conditioning agent:
- Chemical/molecular name
- Origin (plant-based, marine-based, etc.)
- Specific chemical properties
- Performance Metrics: Identify specific performance measurements for the conditioning agent:
- Conditioning effectiveness metrics
- Biodegradability and Ecological Impact: Extract information about biodegradation rate, aquatic toxicity measurements, and environmental sustainability metrics.
Results
Characteristics of Included Studies
| Bio-based Alternative Type | Study Design | Performance Metrics | Environmental Assessment Method |
|---|---|---|---|
| Octyldodecyl myristate, Glyceryl oleate | Experimental laboratory study, Comparative analysis | Restoration of hydrophobicity, reduction in friction | No mention found |
| Behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine (BAPDMA) | Experimental laboratory study, Comparative analysis | Sensorial profile, combing force reductions | No mention found |
| Chitosan | Experimental laboratory study, Comparative analysis | No mention found | No mention found |
| Hyaluronic acid (HA) | Formulation development study, Experimental laboratory study | Wet combing force, rheology, surface tension | No mention found |
| Waterborne polyurethanes (CWPU) | Experimental laboratory study, Formulation development study | Young’s modulus, elongation at break, moisture uptake | No mention found |
| Brazil nut oil, Olive oil | Experimental laboratory study, Comparative analysis | Break force, combing force, shine | No mention found |
| Pneumatophorus japonicus heads peptides (PHP) | Formulation development study, Experimental laboratory study, Comparative analysis | Surface morphology, fragmentation, roughness, gloss, amino acid content | No mention found |
Effects of Bio-based Alternatives
Conditioning Performance
| Alternative Type | Conditioning Effectiveness | Durability | Consumer Acceptance |
|---|---|---|---|
| Plant-based oils (e.g., Brazil nut oil, Olive oil) | Improved break force, reduced combing force, increased shine | No mention found | No mention found |
| Marine-derived peptides (e.g., PHP) | Improved surface morphology, reduced fragmentation and roughness, enhanced gloss | No mention found | No mention found |
Environmental Impact
| Alternative Type | Biodegradability | Microplastic Release | Sustainability Score |
|---|---|---|---|
| Behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine (BAPDMA) | Improved biodegradation compared to current cationic surfactants | No mention found | No mention found |
| Chitin-derived compounds | Biodegradable | Potential to reduce plastic waste | No mention found |
| Pracaxi oil | No mention found | No mention found | Contributes to environmental restoration |
Processing and Application Considerations
Manufacturing Requirements
- Formulation techniques: Zhou et al. (2024) demonstrated that the presence of cellulose nanocrystals improved the emulsifying properties of cationic cellulose.
- Compatibility with existing formulations: Li et al. (2022) emphasized the importance of ensuring compatibility between novel bio-based ingredients and commercial surfactants commonly used in hair care products.
Stability and Formulation
- pH sensitivity: Some bio-based alternatives show pH-dependent behavior.
- Emulsion stability: Zhou et al. (2024) focused on developing stable silicone oil emulsions using cellulose-based complexes.
References
- Valentin Goussard, J. Aubry, V. Nardello‐Rataj (2022). Bio-based alternatives to volatile silicones: Relationships between chemical structure, physicochemical properties and functional performances. Advances in Colloid and Interface Science.
- Catarina Fernandes, B. Medronho, L. Alves, M. Rasteiro (2023). On Hair Care Physicochemistry: From Structure and Degradation to Novel Biobased Conditioning Agents. Polymers.
- Ziyong Zhou, et al. (2024). A gentle conditioning agent consisted of oppositely-charged-induced cellulose nanocrystal and cationic cellulose: Stability, conditioning and delivery. Journal of Cleaner Production.
This report emphasizes the role of bio-based silicone alternatives, focusing on hair conditioning properties and environmental sustainability, thoroughly analyzing various studies to ascertain the viability of these ingredients.