Bio-Based Silicone Alternatives for Hair Conditioning

Which bio-based silicone alternatives match hair conditioning while cutting micro-plastic release?

Chitin-derived compounds are the only bio-based alternatives that both condition hair and reduce microplastic waste.

Abstract

Several studies report that a range of bio‐based alternatives achieve hair‐conditioning benefits. Plant-based oils (e.g., Brazil nut and olive oils) improve break force, reduce combing force, and enhance shine. Marine-derived peptides yield smoother surface morphology with less fragmentation, while bio-based polymers (such as waterborne polyurethanes and cationic cellulose) improve moisture uptake and silicone deposition. Novel surfactants (for example, Behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine and keratin-based surfactants), chitosan-based formulations, protein-based conditioners (such as cetearamidoethyl diethonium hydrolyzed protein), and plant extracts also demonstrate improvements in friction, contact angle, and hair strength.

Regarding environmental impact, several alternatives are reported to be biodegradable. Among the candidates, chitin-derived compounds alone show evidence of reducing plastic waste, suggesting a potential to cut microplastic release. Formulation and processing details—such as emulsification behavior, pH sensitivity, and particle size control—further inform performance, yet only chitin-derived compounds directly address the microplastic concern alongside robust hair conditioning.

Methods

We analyzed 40 sources from an initial pool of 500, using 8 screening criteria. Each paper was reviewed for 5 key aspects that mattered most to the research question.

Papers identified with Elicit search

• n = 500
  Papers screened using: Bio-based Alternative Focus, Hair Conditioning Properties, Study Type, Scientific Rigor, Performance Data, Environmental Impact, Hair Care Relevance, Comparative Analysis
• n = 460
  Papers screened out
• n = 40
  Papers included for extraction

Data extraction

• Study Design Type:
  Identify the type of study design used:

  • Experimental laboratory study
  • Comparative analysis
  • Theoretical/review study
  • Formulation development study

• Specific Research Focus:
  Extract the primary research objective or focus of the study.

• Bio-based Conditioning Agent Characteristics:
  Extract details about the bio-based conditioning agent:

  • Chemical/molecular name
  • Origin (plant-based, marine-based, etc.)
  • Specific chemical properties
  • Molecular structure (if provided)

• Performance Metrics:
  Identify specific performance measurements for the conditioning agent:

  • Conditioning effectiveness metrics
  • Micro-plastic release measurements
  • Comparative performance against traditional silicone agents

• Biodegradability and Ecological Impact:
  Extract information about:

  • Biodegradation rate
  • Aquatic toxicity measurements
  • Environmental sustainability metrics

Results

Characteristics of Included Studies

• Bio-based Alternative Type

  • 12 studies used polysaccharide-based alternatives
  • 7 studies used lipid-based alternatives
  • 3 studies used protein-based alternatives
  • 4 studies used mixed alternatives
  • 2 studies used amine-based alternatives
  • 1 study used polymer-based alternatives
  • 2 studies used plant-based alternatives
  • 2 studies used amino acid-based alternatives

• Study Design

  • 33 out of 40 studies included experimental laboratory studies
  • 33 studies included formulation development studies
  • 22 studies included comparative analyses
  • 6 studies were theoretical or review studies

Effects of Bio-based Alternatives

Conditioning Performance

Environmental Impact

Processing and Application Considerations

Manufacturing Requirements

• Formulation techniques: Zhou et al. (2024) demonstrated that the presence of cellulose nanocrystals improved the emulsifying properties of cationic cellulose.
• Processing conditions: Ajayi et al. (2021) investigated the impact of process mixing speed on the rheological, tribological, and wet lubrication performance of a novel amino lipid hair conditioner.

Stability and Formulation

• pH sensitivity: Some bio-based alternatives, like Behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine (BAPDMA), show pH-dependent behavior, converting into a cationic surfactant at acidic pH.

References

1. Valentin Goussard et al. (2022). Bio-based alternatives to volatile silicones: Relationships between chemical structure, physicochemical properties and functional performances.
2. Catarina Fernandes et al. (2023). On Hair Care Physicochemistry: From Structure and Degradation to Novel Biobased Conditioning Agents.
3. Ziyong Zhou et al. (2024). A gentle conditioning agent consisted of oppositely-charged-induced cellulose nanocrystal and cationic cellulose: Stability, conditioning and delivery.